Jan Marini C-Esta serum is nice, but is it for everybody?
Actives:
- DMAE
- urea
- vitamin C (ascorbyl palmitate)
- ergothioneine
- vitamin B6
- acetyl tyrosine (bronzing agent)
On application:
Very watery serum with an intense aroma. The application is quick, dries down within seconds. Can be a bit prickly – I’d avoid combining it with acids in one routine, probably because of the urea being so high up the INCI (I’ve followed P50 with this once – instant regret). But it isn’t irritating per se.
My thoughts:
This is a beloved serum with a 5-star rating everywhere. I can see why – the DMAE makes the skin appear more lifted quickly, the urea conditions the skin nicely, and the skin just looks better after a short time. Antioxidants make for some more long-term improvements (but ascorbyl palmitate is far from the most effective derivative of vitamin C). There is one group I’d say should be cautious before using it, and that’s hyperpigmentation-prone skins.
It has a bronzing agent called acetyl tyrosine. Tyrosine is a substrate of tyrosinase, enzyme that produces melanin. So… theoretically if your tyrosinase is hyperactive (think melasma) you don’t want to supply it, because it might worsen the discolouration. However, when you apply it on the entire face uniformly you might not see this adverse effect. Other bronzing agents like DHA or erythrulose don’t work through tyrosinase – they might be more indifferent with hyperpigmentation. This is just theoretically speaking though – I don’t say that your discolouration WILL get worse after using it. It only ’might’.
So – if you’ve used this serum please let me know if you’ve seen a difference in your hyperpigmentation!
For you, if: you like products that offer quick results.
Not for you, if: you are prone to hyperpigmentation (but it’s out of caution – there’s a bunch of different options you can try!)
Buy it here: https://www.topestetic.pl/jan-marini/c-esta-face-serum-serum-do-twarzy-z-witamina-c-i-dmae-30-ml
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